Southern Fork Sustenance: A Conversation with Writer & Podcaster Deb Freeman about Edna Lewis and Virginia Foodways

Deborah Freeman is the creator of Setting the Table, a multi-award winning podcast exploring Black foodways and culinary history that in 2023 was honored by the International Association of Culinary Professionals as “Podcast of the Year.” She’s also a colleague in the food writing world, with contributions including to Eater, Condé Nast Traveler, and Garden and Gun, and is the food editor for Richmond’s Style Weekly. We sat down via Zoom to talk about her most recent project, Finding Edna Lewis, a new docuseries for Virginia Public Media that explores the life of the Black female trailblazer who was a celebrated chef and author. As a proud Virginia native, Deb champions Virginia foodways and the power of personal history as a through line in food that can teach us about ourselves and connect us to our ancestors. It’s something that Edna Lewis’ work illustrates and the kind of work Deb is doing in the world, too; therefore, here’s another Southern Fork sustenance conversation, diving deep into the foundational “why” when it comes to the power of food.

Episode with Deb >

Michael Toscano: Le Farfalle, da Toscano, Porchetta Shop, & Fugazzi (Charleston, SC & NYC)

When I first spoke with Chef Michael Toscano in 2017, he and his family were just getting settled in Charleston with the opening of Le Farfalle. Now, seven years later, the chef seems as if he’s truly settled into a new rhythm between NYC and the Lowcountry. He and his wife Caitlin currently have four restaurants: the aforementioned Le Farfalle, da Toscano in New York’s Greenwich Village, da Toscano Porchetta Shop in Charleston, and Fugazzi, a small spot inside Charleston’s Revelry Brewing that serves what Michael calls unauthentic Italian-inspired American food. The last two are decidedly casual, a new turn for a chef that’s been anything but when it comes to his career. He was a sous chef at Mario Batali’s Babbo by the age of 21, was nominated three times for Rising Star Chef by the James Beard Foundation, and opened his first chef-owned restaurant, Perla, in 2012, which made Esquire’s Best New Restaurants in America list. He’s always pursued his passion for cooking, but now that passion is a team sport, where he looks to grow and support the rising stars in his own restaurants as well as the farmers he loves to work with. And one way he does that? By topping soft, crusty focaccia, fresh out of the oven, with all sorts of delicious things. 

Episode with Michael >

Sammy Monsour & Kassady Wiggins: Salt & Shore Cookbook / Joyce LA (Charleston, SC)

I have a passion for sustainable seafood, and it’s been both an important subject here on the show and the subject of many of my written pieces throughout the years. When I first interviewed Sammy Monsour in 2020, I discovered that we shared this passion, and I’ve watched as he has really blossomed into a chef leader on this front. Therefore, when I first heard that he and Kassady Wiggins, his wife and beverage director partner, wanted to write a cookbook about Southern seafood, I encouraged them to go for it. What has resulted is Salt & Shore: Recipes from the Coastal South, filled with stories, sips, and plenty of recipes and photographs that will make you long for sea breezes if you’re missing them. It’s a vibe, something that Kassady and Sammy excel at in their restaurants, which include the now-closed Preux & Proper in LA -- that gained a Michelin Bib Gourmand in 2019 -- and Joyce Soul & Sea, also in LA where they teamed up with founders and operators, Prince and Athena Riley. Joyce was named a “Southern oasis in LA” by LA Times food critic Bill Addison, and the Carolina natives bring Southern flavors to both the food and beverage programs. They are living bi-coastal these days between LA and Charleston and dreaming of their next project. Me? After this conversation, I’m dreaming of hushpuppies, so I’m glad there are two recipes to choose from in their book.

Episode with Sammy & Kass >